Monday, March 16, 2009

Bad Tourists

We did some other stuff rather than eat on our recent trip to Seattle. Here are some photos to prove it.

View from ferry looking back at the Seattle skyline before the rain fell.


Look - it's a mountain ( and also an active volcano)

The outside of the Sci Fi Museum with the start of the monorail track which goes through it. We also rode the Monorail like any self respecting tourist should, paid our $2 and exited about a minute later having gone a mile. Still, at least it was dry.

We were pretty tired and wet by this point and desperate to record anything on our new camera. This is one of the better results, but all in all, we have a pretty bad set of photos to add insult to injury.

Next month we are going to Vegas. I'll try harder for you I promise.

Gluttony in Seattle

In Seattle, when we weren't being woken from our slumber by drunken shouting, or dodging the driving rain, we were stuffing our already over-stuffed faces.

Pike Market was our first stop of the trip, a multi-floored rabbit warren of delight selling food, flowers, crafts, food, books, shoes, food, clothes, antiques, food, toys, jewellery and food. It contained busy thoroughfares of delighted shoppers stopping to watch men throw fish around (it's odd what delights some people), rickety ramps to even more levels of shops which ordinarily would have no business hanging around with each other, and a happy hubbub of contented locals and tourists alike. In about ten minutes (the first of the several hours we were to spend there) this market had overtaken Borough Market in London for the top spot of my favourite food buying haunts. With so much to see and try, it would have been rude not to. I had my first Reuben sandwich and I suspect it won't be my last; we had the best sausage we have had since moving to the States ( and no, that isn't much of a claim I admit, perhaps I should say only sausage) and sampled eight of the locally brewed beers. I'm sticking with San Francisco's Anchor Steam, but it pays to shop around.

We also had amazing tapas for dinner one night, and in honour of St Patrick's Day, I ate a local cheese and Guinness rarebit with scrambled eggs for breakfast on Saturday. Yes, for breakfast. Aren't I the gluttonous lush? Actually, I take it all back, I LOVE holidays.

Sleepless and Soggy in Seattle

Every holiday, short break, or long weekend I have spent with Mike has ended in much the same way; in utter exhaustion. We are bad at relaxing it seems, or going on holiday anyway.

In the last eleven years of premartial-ness, we have slept in a cupboard on a boat with two others in Stockholm, camped in pouring rain and heatwave (interestingly with the same effect), stayed in various shabby youth hostels with tiny beds and maximum noise (and one time, ghost-hunter nudity; best not to ask), random B&B's with lumpy beds and super-heated-for-the-elderly conditions, and 'best' of all, stayed in someone's garage in Dublin where they had been kind enough to insert a bed and call it an apartment. We have also sloshed around Wales, Cornwall and Windermere in ceaseless heavy rain. I seem to remember it rained a fair bit when we went to Paris too, oh and Dublin come to mention it.

Bad sleep and wet feet have come to characterise our little trips away. Last weekend we went to Seattle and you will be happy to know that the curse continued. We decided that next time I see a cheap deal and get the urge to go away, we will stay at home instead and maybe go out for a nice meal.

Crayons and Fat Fingers



Sometimes all you need are felt tip pens to have fun, and the forthcoming first birthday of a friend's daughter, oh, and a husband with a fancy laptop...

Best of all, today I was given some knitted finger puppets, so my next ahem..production... promises to be even bigger and better. I am glad I have discovered this symmetry between my two new hobbies. Soon there will be no end to what I can produce; knitted scenery, costumes, props. If only I could knit a plot.

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

1 Angry Man and a couple of Power Ballads

I have mentioned before that I love the peace and tranquillity of Japan Town, by day. By night this quiet area of the city takes on a different character, as we found out last Sunday.

A weary Dan and Maria, his girlfriend, had returned from an epic adventure along the Northwest coast, and we shared some happy hour beers and developed further road-trip envy as their tales unfolded. We ate in a lovely Japanese restaurant called Osaka, with good and tasty food and THE loveliest server with enough genuine warmth to make up for a thousand fake ' have a nice days.' After sharing some starters and having frankly massive main courses, she convinced us (it wasn't hard) to try their signature dessert dish, Tempura ice cream; green tea ice cream encased in tempura style pancake, deep fried and served with raspberry sauce. We shared it four ways and made short work of it. The temptress was right, it would have been rude not to have tried it. The dish is so popular she told us, that a regular patron always orders some starters and then a tempura ice cream to herself and uses her finger to lick the plate clean.

In public.

Yes, it was that good. But, for a change, this isn't a post about food....

Very full and happy, we ventured further into the depths of Japan town to see what other delights it could offer us. It didn't disappoint. One tiny karaoke bar later, we ordered some expensive and ridiculous cocktails and watched, remembering, almost, not to stare rudely, as the truly tone deaf did their thang. What many of these people lacked in talent, they more than made up for in total unselfconscious confidence and it was a wonderful sight to behold. After a few minutes, we realised that we were the only people there who didn't know each other and there was food set out on all the tables. As each singer wished the same girl happy birthday, our thoughts were confirmed; we had accidentally crashed someone else's private party. I had even had a conversation with a woman at the bar, but no one seemed to mind us being there...even so, we finished our drinks and left. Bad singing is a great novelty but one which soon wears off.

Our next port of call was even stranger. I'm not sure how much to tell you, dear reader. Let's just say, we suspected something not quite right was a-foot in the separate rooms for hire, and the bar lady had NO idea about how to pour drinks. I mean, none whatsoever, as if she had never drunk, never seen a drink prepared or held a bottle in her hand or even knew of the existence of alcoholic beverages but had at that moment woken up, Dr Samuel Beckett style, in a bar. The next day when I read reviews of the place, it was alleged this bar is the front to a brothel, and I can well believe it.

On the way home, we met a man who looked like a tramp who told us that he was a 'Nam veteran and asked us for money for food. I mistakenly uttered the words, 'sorry, we don't have any change' to which he angered instantly and shouted "I'M NOT A BUM! I am a Vietnam VETERAN and I am asking you for MONEY for FOOD...." We could still hear him aggressively shouting about the state of the world today as we hurried away, having not parted with our bus fare home.

Still, on the plus side, the road-trip envy hasn't lasted for long and we are currently planning our own little jaunt. I am brimming over with excitement at the prospect and accidentally crashing a bad singer convention, going to a (suspected) brothel, and being shouted at by an angry bum has done little to diminish that enthusiasm.

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Califenglish?

Last night further evidence of having become more established here emerged. Although there is still a cultural chasm between me and the average city resident, with a couple of notable exceptions, the real test comes when we meet up with fellow country persons. The changes which have occurred to us in the last eight months which are largely imperceptible in an ordinary course of events, become glaring beacons in more familiar company.

In the same way as we like to meet all sorts of new people and find out as much as we can about new and exciting things, we like meeting up with people from the UK. We like to be comforted by their accents, talk freely about a range of subjects without the requirement of explanation, and find out what is happening at home.

Our accents have remained the same, but our manner of forming sentences has changed and some of our phraseology. The biggest example started first with Mike who now begins a lot (like..45%) of sentences with "So.." slightly more elongated than a normal two letter word would warrant, but not quite up to par with some of the surfiest of Californians I have heard (my dictionary tells me surfiest isn't a real word which I think is scandalous.) It is irritating but surprisingly infectious and I find myself doing exactly the same. Worse, we are both fully aware what has happened, powerless to do anything about it, and incredulous that no one else seems to have picked up on it. 'Like' is another word which dribbles out of my mouth and sometimes a sentence begins agonisingly as something akin to: "So, like, there are these...." Don't even get me started on adjectives other than good or awesome, because you know how ranty I get.

So, like, the point. The Americanisation of our lives has become even further embedded in our psyches. It's wonderful really - it must have happened while we slept and I cannot pinpoint the time when everything changed, but I think it was sometime in February. I don't believe it was gradual. I think we ate something a couple of weeks ago, probably from Whole Foods, and it anchored itself to our frontal lobe.

I noticed the shift of attitude yesterday. We met up with some friends for some food in a place called Luella. It was a nice place, a little smarter and pricier than we normally go to, but the food was some of the best I have had in a while so I'm glad we went there. It described itself as a "warm, inviting neighbourhood restaurant featuring Mediterranean inspired cuisine" and was fairly typical of modern-American food. I ate a delicious 'Coca-Cola braised pork shoulder with white bean purée and red pickled onions', and Mike opted for 'Pan roasted chicken over asparagus and wild mushroom ragu with black truffle vinaigrette', so now perhaps you get the measure of the place. It was the sort of joint which perhaps I would have found fairly intimidating a year ago. Our waiter was pushy, arrogant and launched into great diatribes of convoluted borderline food-porn descriptions when asked a simple question. He looked mortally offended when asked, in response to his description of an ice cream sundae involving walnut brittle, Chantilly cream, and amongst other flavours, espresso ice cream, 'erm, don't you have any normal flavours?' I'm not sure it helped that the whole table after trying to keep a straight face in spite of his continued earnestness had now erupted into fits of giggles. He was not amused.

Here's the nub though. Although this pretension was ridiculous, it is also commonplace, harmless, dare I say it, charming in it's own way, and I have decided to embrace it, even though this practically rewrites my genetic make-up. I even decided to flatter his ego and asked what his preference would be out of two desserts I was trying to decide between. The food-eroticist didn't let me down, as I knew he wouldn't, and I was rewarded with warm fluffy doughnut-like 'orange and sweet ricotta fritters with wild honey'. I trust people passionate about food, even though I firmly believe hot doughnuts and honey would have been enough of a description.

Anyway, I have become waylaid, for a change, from the reason of this post, mainly due to thoughts of food. My point is that we, or maybe I should only speak for myself here, I, am evolving into a very different beast; stiff upper lipped, self conscious, tea drinking, sarcastic, critical, easily intimidated, plain speaking, but demanding higher standards of service and products, and getting more relaxed and laid back about how people view me. We are straddling two similar but very different worlds taking the best from each and creating a new wonderful place, which still needs a little bit of work on it's vocabulary.

Have a nice, no, have an awesome day.